SRAM

PURE DAMPING SYSTEM

Be sure to use an oil syringe to bleed the air from the system. Remember ... the system is not PURE if there is air in the PURE damper!!

Oil syringes can be purchased from a hardware, lawnmower, and most motorcycle shops for and about $2 US.

See the PURE Damper Service Guide for the full service procedure.

1. Hand-tighten the compression adjuster rod into the compression top cap assembly. DO NOT USE A WRENCH OR SOCKET TOOL!
2. Position the small detent spring, and 3/32 detent ball in the 6 - 7 o'clock position on the top cap knob from the rider's perspective.
3. Position the CLIMB-IT CONTROL adjuster knob with the extended dial in the 7 o'clock position.

See the PURE Damper Service Guide for the full service procedure.

TIP! When adjusting your U-TURN spring travel setting, remember to unlock the CLIMB-IT CONTROL to the full open (counterclockwise) position before adjusting the travel setting (Psylo C, XC, and SL only).

Compression Adjustment:
To slow down the compression stroke of your PURE equipped fork, rotate the CLIMB-IT CONTROL knob between the 12 o'clock and 5 o'clock positions. This will decrease the flow of oil through the compression valve and slow the compression stroke of the fork. Experiment to determine the desired position.

Rebound Adjustment:
To slow the rebound stroke of your fork, turn the rebound adjuster knob clockwise. Turn the knob counterclockwise to increase the speed of the rebound. Proper rebound depends on riding style, rider weight, preference, and spring rate.

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REBOUND/COMPRESSION DAMPING

Boxxer (World Cup & Team):

Low speed compression:
To tune your low speed compression stroke, insert a 2.5mm hex key (3mm hex key for 1998-2002 Boxxer) through the hollow shaft bolt (left side, from riders perspective) and turn the hex counter clockwise to for increased compression sensitivity for slow speed bumps.

Rebound Adjustment:
To slow the rebound of your Boxxer, insert a 2.5mm hex key (3mm hex key for 1998-2002 Boxxer) through the hollow shaft bolt (right side, from riders perspective), and turn clockwise. Proper rebound depends on rider style, rider weight, preference and spring rate.

Oil:
To slow the compression stroke of your Boxxer, you can change the stock oil weight in the compression side (left) of the forks' damping system. Boxxer ships with 5 weight oil stock. To slow the compression stroke, change to 10 weight RockShox oil.

To increase the speed of the rebound stroke of your Boxxer, you can change the oil weight in the rebound side (right) of the fork from the stock 15 weight to 10 weight

See the Oil Volume Chart below for more information.

2001-2004 SID (World Cup, Team, & Race), 2001-2004 PSYLO (Race & SL) and 2003-2004 Duke Race:
See PURE Tuning Tips above.

2000-2002 JUDY (SL & XC), 2003-2004 PILOT (03 Race, SL & XC), 2002-2004 DUKE (02 SL, XC, & C) , and PSYLO (XC & C):
The fork models listed above feature the HydraCoil damping system. HydraCoil consists of a single Open-Oil-Bath damper unit. C models are not externally adjustable. XC (and Pilot SL) models are externally adjustable.

TIP! Decrease the negative air volume to increase (speed up) the rate of rebound of your fork. Increase the negative air volume to decrease (slow down) the rate of rebound.

Rule-of-Thumb:
Lighter weight oil = faster rebound damping
Heavier weight oil = slower rebound damping

2003-2004 U-Turn Rear, 2001-2004 SID Rear XC Adjust, and 1999-2002 SID Rear RACE:
SID Rear Shocks feature DUAL AIR technology, as well as externally adjustable rebound damping. Tuned together, you can maximize the performance of your rear suspension, based on the terrain you are riding.

TIP! Decrease the negative air volume to increase (speed up) the rate of rebound of your SID or U-Turn rear shock. Increase the negative air volume to decrease (slow down) the rate of rebound. Increasing the negative air volume also increases the shocks' sensitivity to small bumps.

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CHECKING FOR BUSHING WEAR

It is VERY important to regularly check your lower leg bushings to ensure they are not worn, and 'play' (a loose fit between the upper tube and lower leg) is not present. Bushing play leads to decreased performance and control, as well as possible wear on the upper tube anodized surface. The internals of the fork may also become damaged if there is bushing play present.

Bushing wear and tear results from normal use over time. Depending on the terrain, weather conditions, riding style, rider weight, use of disc brakes and duration of use, bushings will and loosen up.

Rule of Thumb: The more you ride, the sooner you will need to replace your worn bushings!

CHECK THOSE BUSHINGS!

1. Remove the lower leg assembly (See the appropriate Fork Service Guide for disassembly instructions.
2. Slide one side of the lower leg onto one upper tube only.
3. Gently, 'rock' the lower tube back and forth.
4. If you feel a gap between the bushing and the upper tube, then you have bushing play and the bushings or lower legs should be replaced.
5. Check out the BUSHING SERVICE GUIDE for complete instructions on replacing your bushings.

You can also squeeze the front brake lever tight and rock the bike back and forth. Feel for bushing play and check to ensure your headset is tight

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POST-RIDE INSPECTION

Dropouts: Check for wear from over-torque of the quick release. Also check for damage caused by rocks.

Brake Arch Area: This is a high-stress area on your fork. If you have crashed, check for cracks! If you notice any, do not ride the fork again, see your bicycle dealer, and have them call SRAM Customer Service for a replace set of Lower Legs recommendations.

Dust Seals: Wipe your dust seals (gray or black seal between the upper tube and the lower tube) clean of dirt, water, mud, and oil. Keeping your dust seals clean will help maintain the performance and life of your fork.

Upper Tubes: Wipe your upper tubes clean of dirt, water, mud, and oil after a ride. Apply a small amount of fork oil, RedRum, or Teflon-based chain lubrication to the area of upper tube closest to the dust seal. Cycle (push down) your fork a few times to spread the lubrication. You're all set for tomorrow's ride!

Rebound Adjuster Knob: (located on the bottom of the right lower leg, at the end of the shaft bolt): Check this out for possible damage caused by rocks, or a crash. Make sure the knob is not bent or leaking oil. If oil is leaking, you may have damaged the internals of the rebound damper unit. Adjust the rebound adjuster knob, cycle fork, and check the different rebound settings after each few compression strokes. If you notice loss of damping, see your local bicycle dealer for a replacement rebound damper unit. If the damage was impact-related (crash, or user inflicted), this is not covered under warranty.

Headset: Check your headset for loose fitting after a ride. Gently squeeze the front brake, wrap your hand around the headset, and rock the bike back and forth. If you feel the headset is loose, tighten it up until the rocking goes away. Be sure you don't over-tighten!

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PRE-RIDE PREPARATION

1. Make sure your upper tubes are clean and lubricated
2. Coil spring forks: Set your spring pre-load based on the riding conditions for the days ride. Less pre-load for bigger hit riding. Turn top cap pre-load adjuster knob counter clockwise. More pre-load for flatter terrain. Turn top cap pre-load adjust knob clockwise.
3. Air Spring Forks: Check and set your air pressure in the positive air chamber, as well as the negative air chamber if you ride Dual Air.
4. Make sure your headset is tight, and there is no play.
5. Check your drop-outs and make sure your wheel is on tight.
6. Set your rebound and compression damping based on the days terrain and ride.
7. You're ready to hit the trails!

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OIL VOLUME

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MAINTAINING YOUR FORK AIR SEAL

1. Remove the air cover cap and deflate the positive air chamber by pressing the schrader valve down.
2. Using a 24mm socket tool, remove the air top cap completely.
3. Look inside the positive air spring chamber. There should be about 3cc/ml of suspension fork oil inside the air chamber, on top of the air piston.
4. If the oil has broken down, or worked its way past the o-ring air seal, then add 3 - 5cc/ml of 15wt, 10wt, or 5wt suspension fork oil.
5. Check this every month and add oil as needed.
6. Continue your regular service intervals, as recommended, and change oil accordingly.

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AIR INFLATION

Check out the AIR PSI INFLATION CHART for recommended inflation levels:

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COIL SPRING RATES

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U-TURN

CLIMBING: Adjust U-TURN travel down to shortest travel setting when approaching a steep climb. By running short travel, your bike and body are in a forward position. This positions your body weight and center of gravity towards and over the front wheel, to aid in climbing.

XC/EPIC RIDES: Adjust U-TURN travel to the middle travel setting for cross-country terrain, and all-day epic rides. U-Turn forks then provide you with plenty of travel for comfortable, controlled riding in and out of the saddle.

GOING DOWN: Adjust U-TURN travel to the long-travel setting, point the bike down, and let'r rip! This is the 'fun-factor' feature of the U-TURN system. You just cleaned the steepest hill on the trail in the short travel setting. Crank the U-Turn counterclockwise to extend the travel, and hang on for the downhill!

Rule-of-Thumb:
Clockwise = Decrease Travel
Counter Clockwise = Increase Travel

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COLD/HOT WEATHER

COLD WEATHER RIDING:
As the temperature drops, your damping can be affected by the colder temperatures. When oil reaches temperatures below 35 degrees F, stock oil will thicken. This will slow down the rebound in your HYDRACOIL, HYDRA AIR, and PURE damping systems.

To improve the adverse affects of cold weather try using lighter weight fork oil.

HYDRACOIL:
2000-2002 JUDY C/XC/SL/Race: 2.5 wt fork oil
2001-2002 PSYLO C/XC 2.5 wt fork oil

HYDRA AIR:
2000-2001 SID XC/100: 10 wt RockShox fork oil
2003 PILOT RACE: 10 or 5wt fork oil
2002 DUKE C/XC/SL/Race: 5 or 2.5 wt fork oil
2003-2004 DUKE C/XC: 5 or 2.5 wt fork oil

PURE:
2001-2002 SID SL/RACE: 2.5 wt fork oil
2003-2004 SID RACE/TEAM/WORLD CUP: 2.5 wt fork oil
2001-2002 PSYLO SL/RACE: 2.5 wt fork oil

WET/MUDDY WEATHER:
As the rains fall, or the snow melts, your cleaning schedule increases! Your bike is covered in mud and wet sand. Your gears shift poorly, pedals are crunchy, and your suspension fork looks like it has been through battle. When you get home is the time to give your bike and your RockShox suspension fork some tender loving care.

A suspension fork, rear shock, and suspension seat post are mechanical devices that have moving parts. As with any product with moving parts, regular maintenance and cleaning will not only maintain consistent performance, but will increase its life. Special care must be taken not to damage external and internal parts. Keeping additional 'rinse' water out of the fork is important.

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CLEANING DO's and DON'TS

Do: Wet a rag, or spray your fork with isopropyl alcohol or degreaser. Wipe the crown, top caps, upper tubes, dust seals, and lower legs clean.

Do: Apply fork oil, RedRum, or Teflon-based lubrication to the upper tube area nearest to the dust seals. Cycle the fork a few times to circulate the lubricant. You can even gently pinch the dust seal, nearest to the upper tube, and add some lubrication (mentioned above) to the inside of the dust seal. This will lubricate the foam ring. Wipe away any excess oil from the upper tubes and dust seals.

Don't: Stop by the local car wash and spray your bike with a power sprayer. This can force water into the dust seals and contaminate your seals, foam rings, bushings, oil, and rebound damper with water, dirt, and sand.

Don't: Use a solvent (think WD40) to clean or lubricate your RockShox suspension.

Use suspension or Teflon-based lubricant. Solvent will damage o-rings, seals, and bushings.

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COIL SPRING ISOLATOR INSTALLATION

1. Remove top cap(s) with a 24mm socket.
2. Pull the coil springs out of fork upper tube(s).
3. Wipe off excess fork oil with a dry rag.
4. Clean the springs off with a rag and isopropyl alcohol or degreaser.
5. Slide the new spring isolator onto the center of the spring.
6. Using a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the isolator until it heat-shrinks to the spring.
7. Apply a small amount of fork oil to the spring isolator.
8. Reinstall springs.
9. Reinstall both top caps; torque to 40 in/lb.
10. You're done!



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