Here There Everywhere | Jesmond Peak

Jesmond Peak splits the two worlds of British Columbia down the middle. On one side, the intimidating Chilcotin mountain range looms on the horizon with its snowy peaks and jagged edges. On the other, the flat, but dramatic, Cariboo plateau, where you can watch rain clouds move towards you in walls. It took me almost three years from first hearing about the riding at Jesmond to actually visit. It is only 4 hours away from my home in Squamish, but I often get lost in the allure of further away places, looking too far beyond what is right in front of me.

The trip begins with a drive I’ve done many times before, and one that could be considered among the most beautiful in BC. Heading north from Squamish through Whistler and Pemberton, we climbed the Duffy Lake Road. We move from the ocean to the coastal mountains to the high plain desert of Lillooet. You can feel the air change. It is drier and more still in the desert.

When we reach Pavilion, we turn off the highway and take the “Pavilion High Line” - a shortcut to our destination: the Big Bar Guest Ranch, which lies in the valley tight to the base of Jesmond Peak. Now ranch land, this area was once a crucial stop on the wagon road during the Cariboo gold rush in the late 19thC. The Chilcotin/Cariboo region is different to my current home, but there is nostalgia in the silence of the wide open space - it reminds me of my childhood in Pemberton, and I am instantly comfortable here.

Big Bar is now owned and operated by the Stswecem’c Xget’tem First Nation (SXFN). The SXFN is a northern Secwepemc First Nation government, a single nation formed by the amalgamation of two bands (Stswecem’c of Canoe Creek and Xget’tem of Dog Creek) about 45km apart from one another. The Nation purchased the property with plans to make the Guest Ranch the hub for several initiatives. The ranch is an investment in both tourism and health; as a centre for the SXFN to share their culture with visitors and as a location to facilitate healing, health and wellness practices within their own community.

The construction of the bike trails is just a beginning. While a few years out, there are plans for having eBike rentals and shuttles available. In addition, there will be horseback riding and cultural teachings like weaving, harvesting and fishing. The Stswecem’c Xget’tem First Nation have been living on and caring for this land since time immemorial. This is a key step to ensure that they can continue to do so, and those who visit can take home the valuable lessons they learn during their stay.

Lost Marbles DH was built by First Journey Trails in partnership with the Stswecem’c Xget’tem. The trail is a 765m drop down Jesmond starting in the alpine below the peak. The trail falls quickly down a ridge with a panoramic view of the Chilcotins straight head. The alpine section is loose and fast, but is built in a predictable way with easy sight lines. It is well worth taking a few breaks to appreciate being where you are and take in the sweeping back country all around you. At the tree line the trail gets steep and very, very fun. The dirt is soft and much of the trail is bench cut that drops into steeper chutes. You fall down the mountain through some very distinct terrain changes. Half way there is a rocky, arid section that reminds me of the trails of southern France or Italy. That quickly changes to a mellower grade and long grass, where you can go all out - as fast as you want to. It feels like the speed is infinite; this is my favourite type of trail! We rode eBikes, as the climb up Stairway To Heaven, which is a multi directional blue trail, is quite long. And let’s just say … you’re going to want to do multiple laps!

We drive home, this time through Clinton, back through Lillooet and over the Duffy and I reflect on the idea of seeking treasure all over the world only to find it in one’s own home. Often what we seek is much closer than we imagine. Travel around the globe is so easy, the world sometimes feels small, but the weekend we spent at Jesmond Peak is a reminder. Here. Now. There are still wide open spaces and peace close by. Big Bar has an exciting future and I think that four hours isn’t much to take me back to revisit the trails and learn from all the Stswecem’c Xget’tem have to share with us.

Words by Miranda Miller. Photos and video by Graeme Miekljohn.